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1967 chevelle ss

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Q: Does anyone know about what to charge for 1967 chevelle ss rear end housing w/ positraction?
We are trying to sell a 1967 chevelle ss rear end housing w/ positraction. 12 bolt. Can anybody give me an idea what this is worth?

A: There is no absolute answer to your question as there are many variables such as completeness including condition of E-brake cables, axle bearings (seals should be replace in any case) Backlash of ring gears, side play of carrier assembly, condition of carrier bearing and the type of Posi and condition of frictions and of course is there any runout on the axle flanges. If it were in California it would probably bring $200 to $500. if all is good $500 or so and down according to the balance of item condition. Test market on local Craigslist.com or search Completed sales on Ebay search key words “12 bolt Chev”

Q: What type and hp comes in an original 1967 chevelle ss?

A: 396 cu and could be from 325 horse to 375 horse.

that is all I recall back in the day

Q: Were seat belts optional on the 1967 Chevy Chevelle SS?
I bought a 67 Chevelle SS 396 a few weeks ago. Now I want to register in NY, but the inspection requirements for NY State include a requirement for seatbelts in each seating position (Model years 1967 and 1968 – two front seat belts are required (driver position included), and one seat belt is required for each seating position elsewhere in the vehicle. )
My car has no seat belts. Were seat belts an option in 1967, or did someone remove them when the car was restored a few years ago and just not put them back?
Thanks.

A: Look under the car at the floor pan (or if you can raise the carpet). If there are unexplained holes in the floor pan in approximately the same location that seat belts may have been bolted down then there’s your answer. GM left no open holes in the floor pans but they did bolt through the pan to anchor the belts so holes equals seat belts. I want to say that belts were required in 1967 but I’m not 100% sure. I have a 1967 Chevy ll Nova that does have belts….through bolted just like I said.

Q: Anyone in the Central/Southeastern Texas area seling a 1967 Chevelle? (Can be SS or not but SS is prefered.)?
Looking for a 1967 Chevelle. Preferably a SS, in good condition. Looking for in the Central/Southeastern Texas area.

A: not me but my neighbor tencha salazar does

Q: how fast should a 1967 chevelle ss with a 502 502 hp with a t 10 trans and 355 in rear run in 1/4 mile?

A: Probably in the mid 10’s. There are alot of variables to consider.

Q: where can I find a 1967 Chevelle SS 396?

A: AZ Auto Auction – Barrett-Jackson Classic Cars Auction

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/scottsdale/

This is the Place Enjoy

Q: Chevy Chevelle SS 1967-69?
Did Chevy offer a 454 in Chevelle SS in 67-69

A: 454 was never offered in the Chevelle by the factory until 1970. The Biggest they put in the ‘67-’69 was the 396. Some of the Dealers did swaps and offered them with a 427, but very few were done, there were actually more Nova’s that had the 427 installed by Dealers. 427 engines last year was ‘69, and in ‘70 they came out with the 454.

Q: Where can i buy a Chevrolet Chevelle SS? In Los Angeles,california?
I am planning on buying a chevrolet chevelle ss in california los angeles and only in the los angeles county county meaning any city in the los angeles county.lol So if you can help in any way it would be greatly appreciated

Details-I am looking for a Chevrolet Chevelle SS 1967-1970

But preferably 1970 Price ranging from 50 dollars to 6,700 thousand dollars Maximum

also wat would the insurance cost be

I would appreciate it if i spoke to someone who knew greatly about this car if so their could be a reward involved for the helper Please

And thank you very much for your time to read throughout this comment and taking the importance

A: I have looked through cars.com, ebay, autotrader, craigslist and several other car buying sites. It’s not possible to find a Chevelle SS in that year range for the price you are wanting. Not in good condition at any rate. The cheapest that I saw in your area was in Acton, CA and it was $18000. Unfortunately when it comes to collector’s cars you have to pay for what you want and usually you will pay dearly.
If you truly want this car and can only go as far as $6700, I would suggest that you try to find a salvageable one in your area (at a junk yard or other place that house vehicles that are no longer running) and fix it up yourself. Buying a classic car in good shape is never cheap. Occasionally, through private party you can find one for a good price, but it is rare. You’re going to have to do a considerable amount of footwork.
Check out local auctions, the area newspapers, and area salvage yards. You might end up lucky and find one that only needs minimal repairs.
Restoration is really your best bet. Someone who is selling a good looking classic has already invested the money (and many times much more than they should have) in restoring it. It doesn’t cost nearly as much to do the work yourself because someone who has already done it will ask much more than they’ve put into it in order to sell it.
Sorry I can’t be of much more help. I’ve spent the majority of my life restoring old cars and while I can say it is a lot of work and digging around for this or that necessary part, it can be quite a bit more rewarding than just buying a toy.
And as for the insurance, it depends on the stipulations of your state and the insurance company you go through. Some insurance companies will allow you to simply put liability insurance on it (which is usually very cheap) but a lot of them require specialty classic car insurance (which covers a lot more than liability but is also very expensive). Since this is a classic car and you will be putting money into it (more or less depending on which way you go, but a substantial amount regardless) then you might want to opt for classic car insurance since it covers collisions and this is not something that you want to be without when your car is worth quite a bit.

Q: How much would It cost for this car?
Ok I really want a 1967 Chevelle SS.
I was wondering in 5 -10 years what do you think the price will be?

What is the price for one in perfect condition and whats the price on one that is just in running condition.

Thank you

A: In 5 – 10 years the price should probably remain the same if gas prices are still the same. One in perfect condition is going to run around 15k vs. 5k for one that is in running condition.

Q: Was the v8 Malibu version of the 1967 Chevelle availabel in a 396 engine?
my vin number starts designates 136 which indicates a malibu as the ss should be138..i have a supposed true ‘67 ss????

A: Here’s a site you may find very interesting…it seems to have a very clean list of options for your car question. scroll down to engine and click optional engines. the 396 is listed for your car question.

Hope this helps you :)

Q: Is this good about a 1967 chevelle?
here is the info the seller gave me about the car. Also is that 454 gunna be loud? I hope so… the block is blue instead of that red/orange. Just please let me know if you would go for it or no. thanks!

I am 17 and am getting a 1966 – 1972 chevelle and I want to make sure the car is okay to buy. I have seen photos and the car looks great.

If your not looking for a daily driver now and want to restore.. It will need:
Front floor pan – 98.00
inner and outter rear wheel wells. 200.00
Trunk pan was replaced 3 piece, still needs 100.00 underside brackets
Needs bumpers rechromed as well as door handles.
Needs headliner.
Drivers door could use new brass hinge bushings.
Needs windshield.
Sand blast frame, repair cosmetic stuff. weld in steel, to 100% make perfect again…
Paint frame and car.
Done!

Drives very nice, straight. Runs strong. Shifts perfect. Fresh posi 8 .5 308 gear.
Racing shft, spicer joints.
th400 gmc trans
454 1978 rebuilt in 00
4 wheel power drum = ok but disc would be little nicer….
new controlarms rear upper and lower w/ new bushings.
Boxed, pre drilled ready for sway bar.
new rear brakes and hardware.
New rear wheel cylinders.
new trans filter and gasket.
all fliuds changed front to back.
dual exhaust, quiet all the way to rear bumper.
New quarter window seals.
New rims and tires 60 on front 50 on back
Fresh painted dash w/ many new nobs switches and buttons.
New dash pad.
New gas tank sending unit.

All lights work!

People keep trying to trade me harleys and trucks? I would oly sell for cash.

7000 if i put stock rear, old control arms, drive shaft, rims & tires on it.
8500 will all of the above + floor shifter for 67 ss th400 and floor shift column, bumper jack and am radio.

Why to prices?
Just some people already have a posi and rims ect… and when looking to restore, prefer lower cost
I am a daily driver. I want it to be safe, but don’t have the money or space to frame off right now.. and that would be my next idea.

A: If your not looking for a daily driver now and want to restore.. It will need:
Front floor pan – 98.00 HOW MUCH TO INSTALL?
inner and outter rear wheel wells. 200.00 HOW MUCH TO INSTALL?
Trunk pan was replaced 3 piece, still needs 100.00 underside brackets
Needs bumpers rechromed as well as door handles. HOW MUCH TO DO?
Needs headliner. PARTS AND LABOR?
Drivers door could use new brass hinge bushings. PARTS AND LABOR?
Needs windshield. 300 PLUS INSTALL
Sand blast frame, repair cosmetic stuff. weld in steel, to 100% make perfect again…
Paint frame and car.
Done!
Blue block? Are you sure it’s not a Pontiac 455? If it is, don’t buy it. Don’t just take his word for it. Look at some pictures of a chevy big block. Make sure you know what you’re looking at. Find someone who knows about Chevelles and ask him to tag along with you. Lunch will be on you.:-)
It sounds like it has a 10 bolt rear end and the gear ratio seems a little tall for the motor. 3:55’s or 3:73’s might be a better match. The motor is only going to be as loud as the exhaust will allow. So, it’s not the motor, it’s the exhaust that is loud. Look around at the body, just below the rear window corners. Is there any rust there? If not, that’s good. If yes, then look inside the trunk right under the window corners and feel around. If it feels really rough, then the rust has gone all the way through. Could be a problem. I would take this guy 8000 cash (with an adult in tow) and see if he bites. If not, walk away. You will still have to invest a lot of time and money to get it into the condition that you want. Remember, you want a daily driver and some of these things are going to put the vehicle out of commission for a while. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it.

Q: What color should I have my car painted?
It’s a 1967 Chevelle SS
It’s dark blue now.

A: dark blue metallic

Q: what muscle car should I pick?
Me and my dad are going to restore a car for me. I have a few ideas right now of what car I want. I prefer muscle cars, I do not like tuners as much.

My ideas are:
-a 1970 Chevelle SS
-a 1967 Shelby Cobra 427
-a 1966 Pontiac GTO

I am on edge about th GTO though, because the parts are expensive and hard to find. Please suggest some cars.

A: 1970 Chevelle SS big block 454.

Q: Which car would you chose?
A 1967 chevelle ss or a 1967 GTO? Eithere way i want to put a big 572 in it.. just need some advice..

A: You should also consider that such a car may be expensive to insure. Check your insurance rates before buying one, for example here – carquotes.fateback.com

Q: how much horsepower would this be and what time would it run?
it is a 1980 royal knight el camino and it has the following 1967 Chevelle SS big block engine (396ci)850CFM Holley Dual Pumper Carburetor Cherry Bomb dual exhaust w/ no cats
Spectre Performance low profile dual intake 260 Comp Cam 2:62 non-posi rear end 350 turbo trannyhow much horsepower do you think it has and what time do you think it would run at the track and how much horsepower do you think headers would add and what headers do i need and how much are they
heads are stock and the motor had 325 horsepower stock
oh yea and it has a edlebrock rpm performer intake

A: There’s no real way to tell the horsepower, as we dont know what compression it is, what heads, etc.. Your missing a LOT of information to even warrant a guess.
Although one thing for sure, 2.62:1, open differential will KILL you if your trying to race it.
I would go MINIMUM 3.23s+ if you want something for acceleration. It will raise your rev’s on the highway though.

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